How many times have you damaged the walls trying to get the old baseboard off? Maybe you’ve seen the results of someone else’s efforts to pry the base off the wall. Or those craters on the face of the base when the nails have been pulled out? Who would have thought you’d ruin the board if you pulled a nail out the same way you put it in?
Now, far be it from me to think this article will be some great teaching instrument for the already accomplished flooring professional. It’s not aimed at pros because they already know this stuff. This is for the new helper, or maybe the home owner do-it-yourselfer and home improvement wannabe. It’s for anyone who has slapped their forehead when they realized it’s gonna take more than just a little bit of new base to cover them damages.
Click on any of these pictures to see larger versions.
Don’t just go in there with a pry bar and start rippin’. It’s gonna end up pulling paint off the wall – probably higher up the wall than your new base will cover. More times than not, people put the old base back on, or use new base that is the same height. To minimize any damage, slice through the paint right where it meets the top of the base. This will separate the baseboard and wall. If you install the new flooring over the old (that’s a whole other topic), replacing the base will hide that fine cut line. Even if it isn’t hidden, it will get sealed with a light coat of caulking when you install the base and paint.
The greatest damage seems to occur when a pry bar is used against soft sheetrock walls. I’ve seen (‘course, I’ve never done it myself ) big-ass holes put in walls when there was a combination of thin, old sheetrock and no stud behind it. Big mess. I use a broadknife to protect the wall. It’s like a really big putty knife – you could use a wide putty knife. But use something to protect the wall, or you’ll be doing some major repairs.
Start to get the top edge of the base away from the wall by using a sharp chisel. You only need enough room to get you pry bar in. Try to get as centered a depth with the pry bar as you can. You want the bottom and the top of the base to pull away from the wall evenly. Work slowly because some times you find a spot of paint you didn’t cut through well enough and it’s sticking to the base as you pull it away. Grab the knife and relieve it.
When base is installed, the nails are usually counter-sunk and the hole is filled and painted over. Maybe it’s been painted a few times. You go banging’ the nail through the front of the base, just because that’s the way it went in, you’re gonna end up with a huge hole. Then not only will you have to fill the big hole you just made, you ain’t gonna find a finish nail big enough to use in the same hole, so you’re gonna have to counter-sink, fill and paint over a new hole. Just doesn’t seem worth it to me. Use a pair of pliers or something like these end nippers I use. Grab the nail shank and gently pull it through the back of the board. Most of the time, it will leave a clean, undamaged face on the base. Your new nail will be the only counter-sinking and filling required.
The last thing you want to do at the end of the job is to try to remember where all that baseboard molding goes (or is it baseboard moulding – I don’t know). Some expanses of wall might have more than one piece of base. Well, it’s a simple solution and it only takes an extra moment at time of removal. Number the damn thing. Number the wall too. The time you save is tremendous. ‘Course, if you’re workin’ by the hour… And don’t forget, sometimes a 6 and a 9 look similar, depending on whether you’re standing on your head or not. Underline them so you know what’s what.
That’s pretty much all there is to it. You just have to be a little conscientious, a little careful and have the right tools. These are the tools I gave my helper. The hammer/hatchet was more versatile in my work than just a hammer, but the hammer end of it is all you need for this job. Use a pry bar that is suitable for the task – too big and you might cause damage anyway. Many people have most of these tools, or acceptable replacements handy. You shouldn’t have to go out an’ buy anything special just to remove baseboard.
Don’t forget, click on any of these pictures to see larger versions.
Before I go, I really need to thank Robert here for being the “model” on this project. Those who know me well, know I much prefer prettier models, but he did fine. In fact, although Robert left my employ after a few months, I was surprised he stuck it out as long as he did. Thanks, Robert, you were a damn decent helper an’ I’m sorry you had to put up with my shit. I can be an ass at times, and God knows I wasn’t very good at teaching in the real world. Who knows, maybe I ain’t very good a teacher in the ether either. But I enjoyed writing this and that’s all that counts… Well, isn’t it???